Inside the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Zaragoza is a large chapel, almost a building within a building. Pews spill out of it, to seat the weary pilgrims who visit the chapel from all across the world. Around them rise the chapel’s superstructure, a frame, a cube in marble and medallion and swathes of gold and rich fabric. It’s grotesque, to …
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